Vetements ready-to-wear collection spring 2025

Fans of Balenciaga, Barthes or bathos were all well served by tonight’s entertaining Vetements episode. We were directed to a pigeon-infested corner of a Montparnasse shopping center, filled with the same heady smell that Nicole Phelps described almost a decade ago at the Vetements breakout show at Le Depot. This once underground brand may now be above ground, but it continues to maintain the appearance of sedition.

Travis Scott opened the show in a black moto look with a paint finish, the first of many moto pieces to race by. Gigi Hadid wore a minidress version of the yellow duct tape catsuit that Kim Kardashian wore while watching a Balenciaga show a few seasons ago: The other difference was that Hadid’s tape was stamped with the DHL logo. You can unpack that yourself: the Gvasalia saga continues.

And further. The collection wound its way through multiple chapters with looks that reflected themes seen in previous collections both here and at Balenciaga. Amid all the self-referential fraternal trolling, there was some cool stuff — and Carmen Kass’ pregnant runway walk was great to see — but watching this often felt like eavesdropping on a one-sided discussion.